Castrol POWER1 4T with Power Release Formula is designed specifically for bikers who love the exhilaration of riding. Castrol POWER1 is an advanced, synthetic, premium quality engine oil designed for 4-stroke motorcycles. It has been tested and proven to deliver superior acceleration at the touch of the throttle as it flows fast and minimizes internal engine friction. Exceeds industry specifications API SL and JASO MA-2 standards.
- For best performance, follow the manufacturer’s recommendations in your vehicle owner’s manual.
- Formulated with Trizone technology to protect all 3 critical zones: engine, clutch and gearbox
- Race derived technology for maximum engine acceleration
- Extreme high temperature air-cooled performance and water-cooled engine performance
- Excellent shear stability to prevent viscosity breakdown
- Exceeds API SL and JASO MA-2

























Just a consumer –
Seems to be okay. Engine runs smoother etc.I have to use for awhile to fully test out.Ask me in six months.Oil: Castrol: Power RS V-Twin 4T 20-50 Full Synthetic:Story: Since purchasing used a year ago with about 13,500 miles I have only used the Kawasaki Red label 10-40 oil, of which the previous owner had used. With the cost of oil changes and recommended from others to try a synthetic oil. Doing research on the internet as I am a Pennzoil lover from years back, however I researched Castrol and decided that it appeared they had the best development and etc. of oils. I just a couple months ago put Castrol in my pickup. With very hot climate here in Arizona I thought that I needed the extra protection and going to a 20-50 as other riders in Arizona use. Following maintenance record.Oil start up and performance:After installation of the new Castrol oil and new KN filter. I started bike ran for a minute and shut down. I let it set for five minutes, then started again. It still rattled a bit louder then normal but left it run the more it ran the more quite it got. I left it run for about fifteen minutes and it really got smooth running and nothing rattling.Putting the VN 2000 in perspective: 2053 cc, 125 cu in, 116 hp. 103MM (better then 4 in diameter x about 5 in stroke piston) or 62.5 cu in per piston / or 62.5 / 61.03 cu in in a liter = 1.02 liter. 141 ft lb of torque @ 3000 rpm.Now lets compare to what we are used to: Most probably the most powerful muscle car of that era was the Dodge 440 magmum: 440 cu in or 7.2 liter, 375 hp @ 4600 rpm, 480 ft. torque @ 3200 rpm, with a: 4.32 inch piston with a 3.75 in stroke. Curb weight 3770 lbs.I figure my bike with the trailer hitch and other items wet weight maybe 900 lb.In perspective: 2 cylinders x 4= so: 125 cu in = 500 cu in, or 8.16 liter, 141 x4= 564 ft lb of torque, 116×4=464 hp. That is more torque then a lot of hyper charged Dodge Cummins pickups pulling big trailers.By weight you have a bike that is: 60 cu in larger, 84 ft. lb of more torque, 90 hp more then the Dodge charger with a 440 magnum. You should have the picture now. The most powerful street cruiser made.After a 2-3 days of riding brief short trips to the grocery store etc..Test ride # 1: OilCruising south on Higley to the 60 right turn, about 15 mph, pour it on a slight bark then smooth, gear two, shifter slides in smooth as silk. Give her more gear three, didn’t even feel it shift, gear four no click it just went there, gear five the same, trottle full the engine just kept going, running so smooth unbelievable, what the heck I didn’t know this had a automatic transmission. At the end of the ramp I looked down I was going 117 mph. Tire review to follow later. After going maybe 8 miles west on the 60 at varying speeds. I turned off the 60. Up to the stop sign I let her settle down and every time now. Back completely off the throttle and she just sits there a very slow rpm guessing about 200 rpm (there is no tachometer) less then with other oil. Those big four inch pistons just sit there thump, thump, thump, green light, very little to the throttle 5 seconds of good barks and she smooths right out with a steady easy rumble. I pull up to stop sign and a loud sounding Harley is in the lane next to me, and the rider wonders what that thump, thump, thump is! I am guessing he thinks I am going to blow him away with sound after the green light. Sorry only five seconds.Analysis: I am guessing that the ECU is sending a signal that there is less power is needed because everything is running so smoothly because of the oil. Now because of going to the 20-50 weight I will purposely just let it idle longer on start up to make sure that I have good oil circulation and coating before I take off. The shifting (same oil works in the transmission) is so smooth, I don’t hear one click and very little pressure.
Nathan –
Oil I hope it’s good.
Michael Green –
Nothing better than CASTROL in our race bikes and we’ve won untold# of races on CASTROL! WestCoastBritishRacing
Thisblackguy –
Been using this in my motorycle for years with no complaints. It feels nice and smooth, and is easier to get than the amsoil alternative I also like. Been using it for years, and will continue to do so.
A. Sease –
Works great in my BMW R1200GS Adventure, is full-synthetic (BMW brand is semi-synthetic), and is less expensive.
WT –
KTM recommends Motorex 4T Cross Power ($21/liter). This Castrol oil also meets motorcycle engine/clutch oil standard JASO MA2 (KTM’s standard-based recommendation for my bike) and it is much cheaper.
drsales –
Quick shipment.
thresher –
When you own a British engineered motorcycle used British oil. Good enough